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Katya Lyukum
By Katya Lyukum

Creamy Chicken Stock for Ramen | Tori Paitan | 鶏ガラパイタン

12 steps
Prep:1hCook:4h
Creamy chicken stock for ramen is now my number two favorite after tonkotsu. Torikotsu uses the same technique but requires less time and effort to make it than tonkotsu — it is much easier to gelatinize chicken cartilage and connective tissues and extract flavors from less dense chicken bones. Most of the myoglobin is neutralized during the first step of soaking chicken in cold water. To make it efficient, chop chicken wings and legs into smaller, 1-2″ pieces to expose bones marrow. As a result, there is significantly less scum to skim during the second step. Like tonkotsu, it is essential to remove the foam that appears, but keep the chicken fat and emulsify it into the creamy stock later, during the rapid boiling. Pressure cookers are very helpful and streamline the last stage of making chicken paitan even more if you are working on just a few portions. For the recipe below, use a 10-quart stockpot. To make 4 quarts of chicken stock I used about 9 pounds of chicken parts. Originally, it was a combination of whole chicken, chicken wings, and chicken feet. In the U.S. chicken feet are only available in Asian markets, which are in my case far away. I was curious whether I can make a decent chicken paitan (see Recipe Notes to learn about this term) by replacing the feet with more wings. The answer is yes, absolutely — 3lb pounds of drumsticks and 6lb of wings do the trick. Tare (see Notes to learn about this term) is the ramen’s seasoning and defines the “type” of ramen. It can be simple or complex, combined or precooked, based on, but not limited to, one of three ingredients — shio (salt), shoyu (soy), or miso. I made a simple, mixed right-in-the-bowl tare based on miso, aiming for bold umami flavors without changing the color of the stock. My version of tare is one of many, feel free to experiment with your favorite flavors.
Updated at: Thu, 17 Aug 2023 03:40:41 GMT

Nutrition balance score

Good
Glycemic Index
19
Low
Glycemic Load
3
Low

Nutrition per serving

Calories1155.3 kcal (58%)
Total Fat71.8 g (103%)
Carbs15 g (6%)
Sugars4 g (4%)
Protein107.1 g (214%)
Sodium603.9 mg (30%)
Fiber3.5 g (13%)
% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Instructions

for stock

Step 1
Fill a large bowl with cold water. Prepare a heavy cleaver and thick wooden cutting board to cut through meat and bones easily.
Fill a large bowl with cold water. Prepare a heavy cleaver and thick wooden cutting board to cut through meat and bones easily.
Step 2
Chop the chicken parts and submerge them into cold water to soak refrigerated for 6-8 hours.
Chop the chicken parts and submerge them into cold water to soak refrigerated for 6-8 hours.
Step 3
Strain the water.
Strain the water.
Step 4
Wash chicken pieces under running cold water.
Wash chicken pieces under running cold water.
Step 5
Transfer clean chicken pieces into a stockpot and cover with cold water 4" on top. Place over high heat, cover with a lid to bring to boiling. Reduce heat to medium and skim the foam. Turn the heat to medium-high to make it boil again. Keep cooking for an hour.
Transfer clean chicken pieces into a stockpot and cover with cold water 4" on top. Place over high heat, cover with a lid to bring to boiling. Reduce heat to medium and skim the foam. Turn the heat to medium-high to make it boil again. Keep cooking for an hour.
Step 6
Meanwhile, prepare aromatics. Peel ginger and slice it 1/4" thick. Peel garlic. Peel and quarter onion. Peel a carrot and chop it into large pieces. Wash and prepare white ends of scallions.
Meanwhile, prepare aromatics. Peel ginger and slice it 1/4" thick. Peel garlic. Peel and quarter onion. Peel a carrot and chop it into large pieces. Wash and prepare white ends of scallions.
Step 7
Place a skillet with avocado oil over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic, and ginger when oil starts smoking and caramelize them without burning.
Place a skillet with avocado oil over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic, and ginger when oil starts smoking and caramelize them without burning.
Step 8
After the first hour of cooking the stock, add caramelized vegetables and scallions. Continue boiling for another two hours.
After the first hour of cooking the stock, add caramelized vegetables and scallions. Continue boiling for another two hours.
Step 9
After the first three hours of boiling, the stock becomes thick and creamy. Remove and discard scallions. Turn heat to high for rapid boiling for the last half an hour. This step will emulsify the chicken fat collected on the top.
After the first three hours of boiling, the stock becomes thick and creamy. Remove and discard scallions. Turn heat to high for rapid boiling for the last half an hour. This step will emulsify the chicken fat collected on the top.
Step 10
Strain the stock and squeeze more from the chicken solids. To emulsify chicken fat even better, use a blender. Then refrigerate or freeze, portioned.
Strain the stock and squeeze more from the chicken solids. To emulsify chicken fat even better, use a blender. Then refrigerate or freeze, portioned.

for tare

Step 11
Measure miso paste, kombu cha powder, hot chili sesame oil, and red yuzu kosho into each bowl.
Measure miso paste, kombu cha powder, hot chili sesame oil, and red yuzu kosho into each bowl.
Step 12
Add 1/4 hot chicken stock and combine all ingredients well.
Add 1/4 hot chicken stock and combine all ingredients well.
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Notes

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Ramen 101.2: Soup Basics—Pork and Chicken Soup Categories: Paitan and Chintan "A fundamental point about ramen soups is that they can be loosely divided into two main categories. Paitan (白湯) (meaning “white soup”) is a thick, cloudy soup. Chintan (清湯) (meaning “clear soup”) is clear, exactly as the name implies. "As an example, tonkotsu ramens are almost always paitans. These soups are thick and creamy. They're full of fats and collagens extracted from pork bone marrow and cartilage. The fats provide tons of flavor, while both add body to the soup. If you cool a thick tonkotsu broth, it will rapidly solidify. But you can make chicken paitans, too. These toripaitan ramens have been ascendant in popularity in Japan over the past decade. Although the Japanese tonkotsu boom ended around the time the toripaitan boom began, tonkotsu ramen is still hot in the U.S. Using chicken feet is a key aspect of toripaitan: they are a great source of collagen and soup body." Ramen 101.3 - Tare Types of Ramen by Kobi's Kitchen "Special Ramen Styles [...]The other type of nouveau ramen I really like is Torikotsu Ramen. The stock of this type of ramen is made in a way similar to Tonkotsu but using chicken instead. After a long boiling time the resulting soup is similarly milky, heavy with gelatine and strong in meat flavour. This distinguishes it from the Hakodate style soup which is also made from chicken, but is clear. Torikotsu is typically topped with things like fried shallots, cabbage, scallion and perhaps a wedge of lemon. In some cases even the accompanying Chashu can be made from chicken as well. To try this type of less-common ramen, may I suggest a small Ramen chain in the Yokohama area called Matsuichiya."