Sweet-and-Sour Caramelized Squash with Pistachio Za’atar

Come November and December, when you usually get tired of all the squash, you won’t get tired of this. Here’s why: The roasted squash gets oh-so-sweet, crisp on the outside, and as tender as butter inside. Then it gets a bit of acid to tame that sweetness, and plenty of texture to keep you guessing with each bite. That’s where the agrodolce comes in, a sweet-tangy syrup made with vinegar, raisins, and honey. The fresh za’atar, with pistachios, thyme, sumac, and lemon zest, adds the crunchy texture the dish needs.

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Step 2

Halve the squash lengthwise (it’ll be training wheels for splitting wood) and use a spoon to scoop out the seeds and any stringy bits. Cut each half into 3- to 4-inch pieces. Halve the shallots lengthwise through the root end.

Step 3

On a rimmed baking sheet, toss together the squash, shallots, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss once more. Spread out the squash and shallots so they have some room to breathe and get that deep golden brown color underneath. (If they’re on top of one another, they’ll just steam.) Roast, flipping the squash and shallots after 20 minutes, and continue cooking until nicely browned and tender, 30 to 40 minutes total.

Step 4

While the squash roasts, in a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the vinegar, honey, and raisins and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the raisins have plumped and the mixture has reduced to a syrup, 6 to 8 minutes. The syrup (aka agrodolce) should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon but not so thick that it doesn’t pour off easily.

Step 5

Arrange the squash and shallots on a platter or large plate and spoon over the agrodulce. Sprinkle the pistachio za’atar on top and serve.

Step 6

Each component in za’atar is essential: the sesame adds crackly nuttiness; the dried herbs give a floral, woodsy flavor; and the sumac brings that distinct tanginess. No two batches of za’atar are ever the same because everyone has their own ideal proportions of ingredients. And because the quality can vary, I tend to make my own.

Step 7

My blend is a fresher version of the classic, using fresh thyme or oregano in place of dried. If you’re adamant about using sesame seeds, go ahead, ¼ cup in place of the pistachios. If you want to make this into a pourable condiment, submerge the za’atar in ½ cup olive oil, which I love slicked onto hot bread. Make this the day you use it.

Step 8

In a small bowl, combine the nuts, thyme, sumac, and lemon zest. Use your fingers to mix, making sure the lemon zest is evenly distributed and doesn’t clump. Season with salt and set aside until ready to use.

Step 9

Ways to Use

Step 10

As a crunchy potato topper (za’atar fries are a thing).

Step 11

On top hard-roasted veg, like carrots, brussels sprouts, or cauliflower.

Step 12

Stir into yogurt as a savory dip.

Step 13

Sprinkle over big, juicy wedges of summer tomatoes.

Step 14

Spoon over Sweet-and-Sour Caramelized Squash (this page).