Winter Squash Wedges or Rounds with Gorgonzola Butter and Crushed Walnuts

Browning winter squash in a little oil brings out its sweetness and covers the surface with golden specks and splotches. It’s just plain good to eat with nothing more than salt and pepper. However, it’s also very good—maybe better?—with Gorgonzola-infused butter, plus it can serve as a base for sautéed radicchio, caramelized onions, and any number of other compatible legumes or vegetables. A good squash to use for this dish is the Rugosa, an Italian heirloom. My second choice is a butternut with a neck that is as long as possible, as that’s the part you’ll be using. You slice the squash into rounds then into wedges, then cook it gently until golden and tender. Another good candidate is a big chunk of Musquée de Provence, which is easy to slice into wedges. And although the Delicata is in a different group, rounds of Delicata are quite good this way, too, the skin left on.

Good

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Peel the squash and slice it crosswise into rounds no more than ⅜ inch thick. If using Rugosa squash, cut the rounds into wedges, and, if using a wedge of squash to start, cut it into wedges ½-inch thick at the widest point.

Step 2

Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium heat and brush the surface with oil. Add the squash and cook undisturbed for a few minutes, then continue to cook, turning occasionally, until tender, about 20 minutes. The surface will be mottled with caramelized spots here and there, and the flesh should be soft. Season lightly with salt.

Step 3

Transfer the squash to a serving plate and spoon a little of the butter onto each piece. Season each piece with a few pinches of parsley and walnuts, season with pepper, and drizzle olive oil over all.

Step 4

With Parsley Sauce: Spoon a little sauce (try adding some fresh mint to it) over each piece just before serving.

Step 5

With Mascarpone and Fried Sage Leaves: Add small dollops of mascarpone to each piece and crumbles of fried sage leaves.

Step 6

With Other Varieties: Cut any favorite winter squash into wedges, about ½ inch at the widest point. Brush with olive oil and bake in a moderate oven, turning occasionally, until tender and golden.