a really great salad with lots of options

This salad started out in one place and ended up in another because someone was on a campaign to make me like beets, and she almost succeeded—but almost just wasn’t good enough. (Try again next book, Sussman.) I’m sure those dirty roasted roots would please many of you, but this mix-and-match salad will please all of you. So, select the lettuce you love, the fruit you desire, the nuts you crave, the cheese you please. All I ask is that you make the creamy balsamic dressing to the letter, because it truly goes with everything and will make you look good (and your salad taste good) no matter what combination you go with.

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Step 1

1MAKE THE NUTS: Combine the pistachios, sugar, butter, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and the black pepper in a medium nonstick skillet and cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat, until the sugar melts, coats the nuts, darkens slightly, and smells nutty, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate, sprinkle with the cayenne, cool completely (about 10 minutes), then break apart. Season with more salt, pepper, or cayenne, if desired.

Step 2

2MAKE THE DRESSING: Combine the vinegar, mustard, water, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking as you drizzle, until the dressing gets thick and creamy.

Step 3

3ASSEMBLE THE SALAD: If desired, place the onion in a bowl, cover with ice water for 10 minutes, then drain and pat dry (this makes the onion a little less pungent and keeps it crisp). Combine the lettuce, figs, and onion on a serving platter. Scatter the cheese and nuts on top, drizzle with half of the dressing, and top with lots of cracked black peppercorns. Serve the remaining dressing on the side or reserve for another use.