Aloo bhujia

Pakistan Serves 1–2 as a side or snack I learnt this way with potatoes under the tutelage of my friend Saliha Mahmood Ahmed. She achieves the seemingly impossible, utterly irresistible combination of crisp and melting with a clever technique. The potatoes move from frying to steaming and back to frying in one pan, emerging anointed in golden oil and crusted with spice. Fenugreek leaves (methi) lend a key flavour. Different from the pungent, bittersweet seeds, the leaves have a quiet grassiness rather like fennel or celery. Aloo bhujia made the Saturday breakfasts of Saliha’s childhood, with paratha and eggs fried sunny-side up. There could be few better ways to start a weekend, though I also love them as a greedy snack for one, scattered with the hot-sour spice mix chaat masala in place of the herbs.

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

You will need a large non-stick frying pan and a heavy lid that will fit inside it like a weight, rather than sit on top.

Step 2

Slice the potatoes finely and evenly, ideally with a mandolin or food processor, into discs about 1.5-2mm (1/16 inch) thick.

Step 3

Boil the kettle.

Step 4

Over a medium–high heat, melt the ghee in the frying pan. Add the nigella, cumin, turmeric and chilli and let the spices bubble and fizz in the hot fat. Tip in the potatoes and the fenugreek leaves, stir well to coat each slice in the golden oil, then flatten and push down the potatoes onto the base of the pan.

Step 5

Pour over 175ml (¾ cup) of the recently boiled water and sprinkle with salt. Cover with the weighty lid and leave to cook for 12–15 minutes. The water will bubble up the sides of the lid, reducing away until the potatoes begin to sizzle and fry. You can remove the lid for the last few minutes once the potatoes are tender, carefully lifting a slice to check underneath. They are ready when the bottoms are well browned and crisp.

Step 6

Tip onto a plate and sprinkle with flaky salt and coriander leaves.

Step 7

EAT WITH

Step 8

Fried eggs, paratha, chilli pickle