Butternut Squash Fries with Lemon-Parmesan Aioli

When I serve guests this appetizer, they always ask “What’s in the aioli?” When I list the ingredients, they can’t believe how simple it is. The secret is the miso: Not only does it add richness (and eliminate the need for eggs or mayonnaise), it adds a depth of flavor you can’t quite place. A ton of grated Parmesan also helps. The creamy aioli actually started as a dressing for potato salad, then became a dip as I added more and more miso. It also makes a great spread for sandwiches. Here, it’s the perfect accompaniment for crispy fried squash, or any other vegetable you want to swap in—I’d start with asparagus, zucchini, or green beans.

Good

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 375°F and place a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet. Peel the squash and cut it in half crosswise between the neck and the bulb. Cut the bulb in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut the flesh into ½-inch wedges. Cut the neck into fries about 3 inches long and ½ inch thick.

Step 2

In a mixing bowl, combine the oil, lemon zest, sage, red pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper and stir to combine. Add the squash and toss well to coat (you want the spices to stick to the squash).

Step 3

Arrange the squash on the prepared baking sheet and roast until just tender when pierced with a paring knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Set aside and let cool to room temperature. (The roasted squash can be made ahead and refrigerated for a few hours.)

Step 4

Heat 2 inches of oil in a medium saucepan until it reaches 375°F on a deep-fry thermometer.

Step 5

In a medium bowl, whisk together the ¾ cup flour and the cornstarch. Combine the vodka and seltzer in a mixing cup and whisk the liquid into the dry ingredients until smooth.

Step 6

Place the remaining flour in a shallow bowl. Working in batches, dredge the roasted squash in the flour, then dip them in the batter, letting the excess drip off. Fry the squash in batches, stirring frequently, for 1½ to 2 minutes, until crisp (the batter will not brown very much). Transfer the fried squash to paper towels and sprinkle with salt and chopped parsley. Let the oil return to 375°F between batches.

Step 7

To serve, transfer the squash to a platter and serve with the Lemon-Parmesan Aioli on the side.

Step 8

The Takeaway Whenever I make a tempura-like batter for fried vegetables, I add a good amount of vodka to the mixture, which yields a much crispier coating. This is because vodka evaporates more quickly than the water in the batter, which dries out the batter more quickly and creates large bubbles that result in an airy and incredibly crispy crust.