smoky Aubergine bharta

Baingan bharta India Serves 2–4 Alchemy happens when aubergine is cooked long enough for it to slump, its squeaky flesh transformed to delightful silkiness. If you char it over flames, the fire-fanged smokiness takes it to another level still. Irresistible. The smoky aubergine purées that have caught the spotlight are from the Middle East: baba ghanoush, mutabal, mirza ghasemi. But aubergines are an Indian native, taken west by Persians who in turn introduced them to the Arab world. This is a recipe from the Punjab region of India, where the spicing adds an exciting dimension. It doesn’t seem a stretch to imagine the technique of fire-roasting aubergines travelled with traders crossing east and west, perhaps those following overland routes, as you can also find similar purées in central China, doused with soy sauce, vinegar and chilli oil.

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Put the aubergines directly into the flames of two gas burners and cook, turning frequently, for about 12 minutes. They are ready when the skin has blackened and the flesh has collapsed completely. Alternatively, rub with oil and cook in the oven on its hottest setting for 40–60 minutes, until very tender. Leave to cool, then peel and discard the skin.

Step 2

Heat the oil in a frying pan. Fry the onion slowly until soft, then add the garlic and ginger and cook for a couple of minutes longer.

Step 3

Stir in all the spices and a generous pinch of salt. Add the tomatoes, turn up the heat a little and cook for 5–10 minutes until the red deepens and the fat starts to separate from the sauce.

Step 4

Roughly chop the aubergine flesh and add to the pan, mashing a little into the sauce with a spoon. Cook together on a medium–low heat for another 5 minutes, stirring often. Taste for salt and brighten the flavours with a squeeze of lime juice.

Step 5

Serve with a verdant scattering of coriander.

Step 6

EAT WITH

Step 7

Hot roti to scoop up the bharta