Cornmeal-Crusted Hake with Mashed Butternut Squash and Soy–Brown Butter Vinaigrette

This dish delivers the crunchy texture of a cornmeal-crusted fish but avoids the heaviness that comes with a battered-and-fried fish. It’s also gluten-free, thanks to the sticky paste of egg whites and cornstarch that helps the cornmeal adhere to the fillet. I’ve used this technique with skate, and it works with other flaky fish as well. I love the way the squash, spinach, and herbs all come together at the end of the dish to create a very flavorful mash, one that you could also serve on its own or with any kind of protein. Be sure to cook the spinach and herbs long enough so they completely wilt and the whole thing becomes one mass, rather than sautéed spinach with little pieces of squash mixed in.

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Step 1

In a medium saucepan, bring the squash, water, and ½ teaspoon salt to a simmer. Cover the pot and cook over medium heat until the squash is very tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the water and mash the squash with a fork or potato masher. Season to taste with salt. The squash can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated until ready to use.

Step 2

In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the spinach and cook, stirring frequently, until it begins to wilt, about 2 minutes. Add the herbs, stir to combine, and cook for 1 minute. Add the squash and stir to combine; the spinach should completely wilt and blend into the squash. Turn off the heat, season to taste with kosher salt, and keep warm.

Step 3

In a bowl, whisk the egg whites with the water and cornstarch. Season the hake all over with kosher salt and brush one side with the egg white mixture. Dredge that side in the cornmeal, pressing it into the fish until well coated. In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over high heat. Add the hake, cornmeal side down, and cook until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the fish over and continue cooking until opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes longer.

Step 4

Divide the spinach and squash among four plates. Top with the fish and drizzle some of the vinaigrette over. Top with freshly grated lime zest, a squeeze of lime juice, flaky salt, and pepper. Serve.

Step 5

The Takeaway Using brown butter as the fat in a vinaigrette is an old-school French thing, but classic applications tend to be too creamy and heavy for fish. I lighten my vinaigrette up with tamari and lime juice, so it ends up being more like a vibrant pan sauce, one that you could also use to dress green vegetables or a salad.