Double-Roasted Winter Squash with Ginger-Chile Brown Butter

The simplest way to deal with a large, tough-skinned winter squash: Put it in the oven and slow-roast it until it is completely soft from base to stem. Because the flesh is sealed inside that thick skin, it stays completely moist; once the squash is done roasting, you can cut it open easily and claim your treasure. The second roasting called for in this preparation concentrates the flesh, and the spicy-sour sauce complements and balances the sweet vegetal flavors of the squash.

Unbalanced

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

From the Market Winter squash Fresh hot chiles Cilantro Spin It Use butternut, acorn, red kuri, delicata, or calabaza squash in place of kabocha; cook times will vary based on size If you don’t like spicy stuff, omit the chiles Mint, basil, chives, and/or chervil can replace the cilantro At Home Limes Ginger Kosher salt Olive oil Butter Flaky salt Spin It Replace lime juice with juice of 1½ lemons or about ¼ cup grapefruit juice Use 2 garlic cloves instead of ginger

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil or parchment paper.

Step 3

Scrub the squash and prick the skin all over with the tip of a paring knife, then place it on the prepared baking sheet. Roast until the squash is extremely tender when pierced with a cake tester or paring knife, 2½ hours.

Step 4

Meanwhile, stem chiles; remove seeds for less heat, then mince. Place in a small bowl and finely grate the zest of all 3 limes over. Squeeze lime juice into the same bowl. Finely grate half the ginger into the mixture. Add 1½ teaspoons kosher salt and stir to combine. Let chile-lime mixture sit.

Step 5

Remove the squash from the oven and increase oven temperature to 425°F. When squash is cool enough to handle, cut it open into a few large sections and scoop flesh into a medium bowl, discarding seeds and stringy bits. Grate in the remaining ginger. Add ¼ cup oil, season with salt, and mash well until thoroughly combined but still chunky in places. (Cover and refrigerate squash mixture for up to 4 days before proceeding, if desired.)

Step 6

Drizzle a large (10-inch) cast-iron skillet or 2-quart baking dish with oil to coat. Spoon squash into the skillet, then use the back of a spoon to spread it out and create swooshes and divots in the surface. Drizzle with a little more oil, then roast until the squash is dark golden brown on peaks, underneath, and around the edges, 50 to 60 minutes (use a thin metal spatula to lift up the edge and peek underneath to check its progress).

Step 7

About 10 minutes before the squash is done, melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until it foams, then cook, swirling pan frequently, until butter is brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in 2 tablespoons chile-lime mixture. Spoon ginger-chile butter over the squash and top with cilantro and some flaky salt. Serve with the remaining chile-lime mixture alongside.