very simple pho

SPROUTS OR SHOOTS, FRIZZLED SHALLOTS, ABUNDANT HERBS Pho is really all about the broth—and this is especially true of vegetarian pho. When it’s an exquisite broth, the noodles and herbs are enough to complete the bowl. This recipe is the simplest possible and makes a light meal. Crispy-fried shallots lend a trace of savoriness, and for juicy crunch, I like to add sprouts or shoots, like mung bean sprouts or sunflower shoots. Use this as a starting point as you experiment with whatever herbs and vegetables you have on hand, drawing from the different treatments in the recipes that follow. Add any vegetables you like such as wilted greens or little wisps of crunchy carrots or radish. Fresh chives, shiso, and lemon verbena used sparingly are lovely additions here

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Step 1

•Place the pho broth in a pot and heat to a simmer. Stir in the sugar and salt, then taste, adjusting the seasonings as necessary. Keep covered over low heat until ready to serve.

Step 2

•Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to boil and salt it generously. Add the noodles in a strainer basket or the strainer insert that comes with your stockpot if you have one, and cook until tender, usually 4 to 7 minutes or according to the package instructions. Lift out the noodles, reserving the cooking water, and thoroughly rinse the noodles under cold running water in order to remove excess starch. Quickly dunk them back into the hot water to reheat. Divide the noodles among four bowls.

Step 3

•Arrange the fresh herbs, lime wedges, chilies, ginger, and chili oil on a large platter or on individual plates at the table.

Step 4

•Ladle the hot broth over the noodles in each bowl, then divide the tofu, sprouts, and shallots over the top. Serve immediately, allowing diners to add the fresh herbs and the remaining garnishes as they please.