BULGUR AND GREEN LENTIL SALAD WITH CHICKPEAS AND PRESERVED LEMON

When I went to make this recipe recently, I had plenty of Hearty Lentil Minestrone with Kale in the refrigerator. I didn’t want to cook even more lentils since I was the only one eating from a considerable volume of the leftover soup, so I used the lentils from the soup (yes, we do that). It was studded with carrots and celery, and the vegetables looked so great in this dish, I decided to include them in this version. This is a good salad for winter, when there’s a dearth of fresh vegetables, but you can take it into other seasons as well. In summer, for example, you might want to omit the preserved lemon and add tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers, all finely diced in a relish. Purslane is also a possible summer addition. In early spring or winter, try roasted Jerusalem artichokes or walnuts instead of or in addition to preserved lemon. Some other changes you might make include using smoky freekeh mixed with or in place of bulgur, or farro, or another ancient grain, or the pseudograin quinoa. Smoked paprika and smoked salt might be brought into play as well. But before you get too deep into the other possibilities, consider the combination of the cracked wheat, lentils, and chickpeas. Their subtle earthy flavors and colors always make me think of beach stones when I put this salad together. If time allows, soak the lentils for at least a half hour, or longer. They cook more quickly, closer to the time you might expect, and I feel they emerge with more flavor and a better texture.

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Step 1

If you have time, soak the lentils in water to cover for 30 to 60 minutes. Drain the lentils, then put them in a small saucepan and cover with water by at least 2 inches. Add the bay leaf, carrot, and ½ teaspoon of salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until tender-firm, 25 minutes or longer. Check to make sure there is ample water and add more as the lentils cook, if needed.

Step 2

Meanwhile, put the bulgur in a small bowl, add 2 cups of water, and let stand until the liquid is absorbed and the grains are tender, about 30 minutes. When a grain tastes done, drain the bulgur and press out any excess water.

Step 3

Whisk the garlic, lemon juice, oil, scallions, and ½ teaspoon of salt in a large bowl. When the lentils are done, drain them and add them to the bowl along with the bulgur and chickpeas, preserved lemon, parsley, tarragon, and celery stalks and leaves. Turn gently and thoroughly. Taste for salt and season with pepper. Mound the finished salad into a handsome serving dish. Serve immediately or cover and set aside to serve later.