Summer squash and chickpeas cooked in yogurt Kousa bil laban

Cooking vegetables in yogurt is common all over Palestine but particularly characteristic in the north, due to the Syrian and Lebanese influences. Cooking things in a sauce of yogurt (rather than, say, a tomato sauce) happens due to practical reasons—there is so much yogurt around that it’s a building block of the traditional cuisine—but, also, because it’s such a good way to enrich a dish and make it luxurious. Here, for example, two thoroughly humble ingredients— chickpeas and summer squash—are totally transformed into something rich and comforting. Don’t start with a large summer squash, they can taste bitter and their flesh can be watery. If you can’t find summer squash, use an equal weight of zucchini. If you do this, they’ll just need a couple of minutes less cooking. Serve this either warm or at room temperature, as a side or as part of a spread. Getting ahead: This is best eaten the day it’s made. Leftovers are fine for a couple of days, though. Just bring back to room temperature or gently warm through before eating.

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Step 1

Top and tail the summer squash, then quarter the whole squash lengthwise. Using a small knife, cut away and discard the core flesh and seeds. Cut the remaining firmer flesh into ½-inch/1.5cm dice and set aside.

Step 2

Put 2 tbsp of oil into a large saucepan, about 8 inches/20cm wide, and place over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring a few times. Add the chile, cook for 1 minute, then add the summer squash. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring a few times, until the squash has become slightly greener and starts to soften.

Step 3

Put the yogurt and egg yolk into the small bowl of a food processor (or a countertop blender) and blend for 30 seconds, until smooth and runny.

Step 4

Pour into a small saucepan and place over high heat for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the yogurt starts to bubble. Take care it does not come to a boil, as this will cause the yogurt to split. Once hot, add this to the pan of summer squash, along with the chickpeas, 1½ tsp of salt, and a grind of black pepper. Cook gently over low heat, stirring from time to time, for another 5 minutes.

Step 5

Keep an eye on the yogurt toward the end of cooking; it will split if it gets too hot.

Step 6

Meanwhile, put the remaining 3 tbsp of oil into a small saucepan and place over medium heat. Once hot, add the garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes, stirring frequently, until the garlic is a very light golden brown.

Step 7

Add the cilantro, stir for 5 seconds, and then set aside.

Step 8

Spoon the summer squash and sauce into a deep bowl (or individual serving bowls) and top with the garlic-cilantro mix. Sprinkle with the chile flakes, if desired, and serve either warm or at room temperature.