Pan-roasted salmon with cauli-tartar sauce and chive vinaigrette

When I crave salmon, I want the flesh rare in the middle, the skin to be sleek as glass, and the belly part of the fillet rich, fatty, and juicy. For me, only pan-roasting will do. It’s worth paying a little bit more for well-sourced salmon. If the price per pound is too good to be true, the fish is probably not too good. 4 servings From the Market Salmon fillets Fresno chile Cauliflower Dill and/or basil Chives Spin It Steelhead trout, arctic char, or red snapper for salmon Any other medium-spicy fresh chile can replace Fresno Green cabbage for cauliflower Tarragon, chervil, or fennel fronds to replace some or all herbs At Home Grapefruit Sugar Salt and pepper Mayonnaise Unseasoned rice vinegar Capers Olive oil Spin It A combination of orange and lemon zest and juice for grapefruit Cider vinegar for rice vinegar Chopped cornichons or brined green olives for capers 1½ pounds skin-on salmon fillets, patted dry

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Preheat oven to 450°F. Place salmon skin side up on a plate and let sit while oven preheats. In a small bowl, stir together chile, grapefruit zest, 1 tablespoon grapefruit juice, and a pinch of sugar. Season generously with salt. Set chile-grapefruit mixture aside.

Step 2

Meanwhile, place cauliflower halves cut side down and thinly slice, working from an outside edge toward the stem. You’ll end up with pieces of all sizes, which is great. Place in a medium bowl and toss with a 4-finger pinch of salt. Let sit for 10 minutes, tossing a couple of times, then add mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, capers, and chopped tender herbs. Set aside.

Step 3

Preheat an 8- or 10-inch ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Pat salmon skin dry again and season with salt and pepper.

Step 4

Add 1 tablespoon oil to skillet, then gently lay salmon skin side down in pan. Cook, undisturbed, until the skin is golden brown around edge, about 2 minutes. Transfer to oven, still skin side down, and cook until skin is very crisp and fish is medium-rare in thickest part, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove skillet from oven and gently turn fish onto flesh side.

Step 5

Let sit in skillet for 30 seconds, then transfer to a plate. Let salmon rest, skin side up, for 5 minutes.

Step 6

In a bowl, stir together chives and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add remaining 1 tablespoon grapefruit juice and 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, season with salt, and stir chive vinaigrette gently to combine.

Step 7

Add reserved chile-grapefruit mixture to cauliflower mixture and toss cauli-tartar sauce to combine. Serve salmon with cauli-tartar sauce, with chive vinaigrette spooned over.