HARISSA

This is so outrageously good we couldn’t help but include it in the book. We use it from time to time in our sandwiches. The recipe here is almost identical to the one I learned at Moro, with an addition of charring the red chillies to create a lovely smoky flavour. If you can get your hands on a very-good-quality red wine vinegar like the one we use, then it will be greatly appreciated by all who eat it. We use the brand Forum, which is a Cabernet Sauvignon red wine vinegar made in Spain. I prefer to use canned or jarred piquillo peppers, the sweet ones from Spain. If you can’t get hold of these then the long ones from Turkey work perfectly well. Failing that, buy a red (bell) pepper and place either in the hottest oven possible or directly on a flame, turning occasionally until it is blackened. Put in a bowl and cover with a plate until cool, then peel and deseed, and douse with some red wine vinegar. Makes about 150ml (5fl oz/1 small jar)

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Get a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat and, when hot, add your chillies. Leave over the heat and turn occasionally as they start to blacken.

Step 2

When they are black all over (about 10 minutes), transfer to a bowl and cover with a plate. After about 5 minutes you should be able to roll each chilli between your thumb and forefinger to nudge the seeds and membrane out. If you leave a few in it’s not the end of the world, but it will make it spicier.

Step 3

Put the caraway and cumin seeds in a dry frying pan and toast for about 3 minutes over a low heat. They will start to crackle and go golden, but remove from the heat before they start to turn dark and smell burnt. (If you take them too far, then throw them out and start again, as they will make the harissa bitter.) Crush the toasted seeds in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder (or using the flat side of a chef’s knife).

Step 4

Put the chillies, garlic, piquillo pepper and 2 tablespoons of oil in a food processor and blitz to the desired consistency. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the vinegar, paprika, ground spices and the final tablespoon of oil.

Step 5

Scoop into a jar or tub and cover with a final thin layer of oil. It will keep for 3–4 weeks in the fridge, provided the oil covers the surface.