CHONG GAK KIMCHI (총각김치 • Ponytail Kimchi)

Chong gak kimchi, sometimes referred to as “ponytail kimchi” because the radish leaves are kept intact and form a “tail” to the radish, is my favorite kimchi and probably one of my all-time favorite banchan. I could eat nothing but rice, water, and this kimchi every day for every meal for weeks without complaint. When my mom sees me yanking out radish after radish from the massive kimchi jar, she always says, with a mixture of both pride and ruefulness, “You ARE Korean!” Growing up, I tried so hard to fit in, I did everything I could to hide my “Koreanness.” But, I was afraid that when I went vegan, I would never be able to eat proper kimchi again, so I immediately set out to veganize chong gak kimchi. As with baechu kimchi, it takes a little longer than normal to pickle than the nonvegan version, but it tastes JUST as good. The recipe is very similar to baechu kimchi; the main difference is the pre-pickling time. You also add a handful more garlic chives to the paste. That’s about it! MAKES 1 HALF-GALLON JAR DIFFICULTY: Medium ALLERGENS: GFO, NF

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Step 1

Rinse the radishes under cold water. Clean and trim them by snipping off the tails at the root end (not the leafy tops) and peeling with a vegetable peeler.

Step 2

Slice the radishes in half lengthwise, including through the stems, leaving the tops attached. If the radish is very small, you don’t need to cut it in half. Rinse all of the radishes under cold water once more and place them in a large bowl.

Step 3

Add the salt and, using your hands, make sure that all the radishes are evenly coated. Set the bowl aside for 45 minutes. Then, shift the radishes around with your hands again and let them sit for another 30 minutes.

Step 4

You will notice that over time a reservoir of liquid will accumulate in the bowl. When your radishes are “bendy” (i.e., resist snapping in two), drain off the liquid and rinse the radishes multiple times under cold water to remove excess salt and any leftover dirt.

Step 5

Meanwhile, make the paste: In a small pot, combine the sweet white rice flour and 1 cup water and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly to avoid clumping. The mixture should come to a gentle boil in a few minutes, at which point it will begin to thicken. Add the brown rice syrup and cook for a little longer, continuing to stir, until the mixture thickens into a paste. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Step 6

In a high-powered blender, combine the garlic, ginger, onion, persimmon puree, “fishy” sauce, and dashima powder and blend until smooth.

Step 7

In a large bowl, combine this garlic/ginger mixture and the rice flour paste. Add the gochugaru. Stir in the scallions and garlic chives.

Step 8

Pour the paste, together with the julienned vegetables, over the radishes, incorporating them with your hands so that the radishes and the leafy tops are evenly coated.

Step 9

Take two halves of a radish (if they were cut in half) and bind them together by wrapping their stems around them. Place them inside a half-gallon mason jar. Repeat with the remaining radishes.

Step 10

Place the lid on the jar and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 week.

Step 11

Exercise caution when you unscrew that lid for the first time. Gas will have built up from the fermentation, and if the jar is packed to the very top, it’s possible the kimchi juices will overflow as soon as you crack it open. Open the lid slowly and over the sink.