Four-Bean Salad with Green Romesco

From Memorial Day to Labor Day, bean salads in various forms are in my constant rotation. They are the ultimate do-ahead thing to bring to a barbecue or rooftop party; I’ve even packed them into ziplock bags and taken them to the beach. They get better the longer they sit, they don’t mind being held at room temperature (or even a little warmer than that, should they get left in the sun), and they can be thrown together in less than ten minutes. Because canned beans are so hearty, they need a really assertive dressing to get the point across. Think very salty, very tangy, very spicy, or very herby. To avoid this becoming a total starch bomb, the inclusion of the fresh beans is very important. Come summertime, you’ve got a lot of options: skinny haricots verts, fat Romano beans, or classic, stemmy green beans—and all work here. Lightly bruising them with salt and lemon helps them not only soften but also release some of their natural juiciness, which contributes to the dressing of the other beans. When it comes to the canned beans, feel free to mix and match the types, using whatever you have on hand; just make sure you’ve got four different types of beans all around; otherwise, it’s just a regular ol’ three-bean salad. Green Romesco Makes 2 cups For all you romesco purists out there with pitchforks, yes, I know this can’t possibly be a real romesco because it lacks both tomato and red pepper, but I use this garlicky, paprika-y sauce just like I would a “real” romesco: dragging thin slices of steak through it, topping crispy-skinned salmon and radishes (this page) with it, thinning it with olive oil to toss with beans (this page), and eating it with every grilled, steamed, or roasted vegetable possible (but it’s especially great with the Olive Oil–Roasted Spring Onions, Leeks, and Shallots on this page). I prefer to make this sauce by hand for the coarse, uneven texture of the herbs and chopped nuts, but if you like a finer, paste-like consistency, it’s also easy to make in the food processor.

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Step 1

Place the green beans in a large ziplock bag along with the lemon slices and season with salt and pepper.

Step 2

Using a rolling pin or heavy skillet, smash the beans until they’re bruised and nearly falling apart (this is very cathartic).

Step 3

Transfer the beans and lemon to a large bowl along with any juices.

Step 4

Add the Romesco, olive oil, and all the canned beans. Toss to coat, seasoning with more salt and pepper. Add the parsley and dill and toss to coat again.

Step 5

In a bowl, combine the parsley, olive oil, almonds, garlic, jalapeño, vinegar, and paprika. Season with salt and pepper.

Step 6

NOTE: If using a food processor, you don’t need to finely chop the parsley, almonds, jalapeño, or garlic. First, process the almonds until they are coarsely chopped, about the size of a grain of rice. Add the parsley, garlic, and jalapeño and process until you’ve got a coarse paste. Add the olive oil and pulse just to blend. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the vinegar and paprika (I find adding the vinegar and paprika outside the food processor keeps the colors more vibrant), seasoning it again with salt and pepper.

Step 7

DO AHEAD: This can be made 5 days ahead and refrigerated in a glass jar or resealable container.