rigatoni with corn sauce & sizzled corn

For the corniest creamed corn, skip the cream altogether. Not in favor of half-and-half or even whole milk—but corn milk, that starchy sap that seeps from the cobs. This creamy but creamless pasta boasts a miso-smooched, sunny-colored sauce that hugs the noodles much like an Alfredo. Even more corn—honestly, come summer, you can never have too much—gets crisped in a skillet until it starts to snap, crackle, and pop all over your kitchen (naked forearms beware), for a crunchy, bread crumbish topping. For more ways to use up that jar of miso, stroll over to this page. lend me an ear Even though it’s a summer vegetable, corn comes with its own outerwear, making it all the harder to tell a good ear from a bad one. Here’s what to look for when you’re at the market: Husks that are bright green, not dull or dried out, with tassels that are fluffy, not swampy. If you take a peek inside, the kernels should be juicy and plump, not deflated or wrinkly, and in orderly rows, not all over the place.

Good

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Fill a stockpot with water and set over high heat to come to a boil.

Step 2

Use a chef’s knife to cut the kernels off the corn; set the kernels aside. Now use the blunt edge of your knife to scrape the naked cobs, yielding a milky mush on your cutting board. Transfer that mush to a blender along with the miso, 2 tablespoons of the butter, and a pinch of salt.

Step 3

Set a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. When that’s melted, add half of the kernels and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is toasty and browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn off the heat.

Step 4

When the water reaches a boil, generously season it with salt. Add the remaining raw kernels and cook for 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon or spider to transfer the kernels to the blender. (Keep the water over high heat; we’re using it again in a second.) Process the kernels until smooth, then season with salt to taste. Cover the blender to keep the mixture warm.

Step 5

When the water returns to a boil, add the rigatoni. Cook for 8 to 14 minutes, until al dente. Turn off the heat and drain.

Step 6

Combine the drained pasta and miso-corn sauce in the emptied stockpot and toss. Season with salt to taste—be generous here to balance the sweetness—then transfer to a platter or plates. Top with the crispy corn. You can add black pepper or red pepper flakes if you want, but I like to let the corn shine on its own.