Slow-cooked, minted courgettes with white beans and fresh cheese

As you will see in later chapters, I often seek bean-based dishes when either I am, or the weather is, grey and subdued. The act of simmering beans is somehow restorative, and their temperate nature pairs well with other comforting tastes and textures. But to eat beans only in these circumstances would be limiting. Whether swimming in a light broth or tumbled through salad, beans also satisfy when something refreshing is required; they are superb carriers of all things bright, zippy, zesty and herbal. This gentle assembly conveys the point well: there’s a luscious but invigorating gloop of jammy, slow-cooked courgettes, primed with fresh mint and peppery olive oil, some of which is dragged through beans and broth, the rest dropped on top, to be enjoyed alongside a shock of fresh cheese, be that soft chèvre, labneh (strained yoghurt), ricotta or feta, plus preserved and fresh lemon and more mint. Bowl-and-spoon food to suit hot and lazy days. By all means soak and simmer the beans yourself. However, I suspect the convenience of pre-cooked beans will suit your likely mood when preparing this dish.

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Warm a heavy-bottomed lidded casserole or sauté pan over the lowest heat possible. Add the butter and three tablespoons of the olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the courgettes and a generous pinch of salt, toss so the courgettes glisten, then place the lid on top and cook very gently for 45 minutes. The courgettes shouldn’t fry and brown, rather they’ll mostly steam.

Step 2

Check the pan from time to time, shuffling the courgettes to swap those on top with those at the bottom. After 45 minutes gently fold the garlic slices into the courgettes, then cook for 15–30 minutes more, or until around three-quarters of the courgettes have fully collapsed. Remove from the heat, season with a little more salt, lots of black pepper and half of the lemon zest, then leave to cool for 15 minutes.

Step 3

When the courgettes are at a ‘just above room temperature’ kind of vibe, add half the lemon juice, three to four more tablespoons of olive oil and three-quarters of the mint.

Step 4

In a large pan, gently heat the beans in the liquid – either from the cans, water or stock. After 5–8 minutes, stir a third of the courgettes through the beans and divide the beans and broth between four bowls.

Step 5

Spoon the rest of the courgettes into the bowls, add a few scooped teaspoons of fresh cheese to each, then sprinkle over the preserved lemon and the remaining mint and lemon zest. Finish with any oils from the courgette pan, a final glug of olive oil and a little more lemon juice to taste.