Goris Beans

Beans from the city of Goris are legendary for their deep flavor and creamy texture. Like cranberry beans and pinto beans, they’re speckled when dry but turn one uniform color when cooked. Yet the range of colors and sizes varies quite a bit. Some are light reddish-pink, similar in size to pinto beans, while others are deeply purple and large enough to creep into lima-bean territory. We were once held captive at lunch while women from Goris explained the nuances between the beans grown in specific villages around the city. Much of the detail was lost in translation (everyone spoke at once, and Goris residents are famous for their strong accents). What wasn’t lost was the pride they had for local beans, and deservedly so; the beans taste so rich on their own that the best preparations are simple ones, like this recipe. If using dried beans, start with 11/2 cups [240 g]; see Cooking Dried Beans (page 32). Reserve some of the bean cooking water to add to the pot. While this recipe is written to mash the beans to the consistency of refried beans, the beans can also be left whole and served at room temperature with a little lemon juice. Leftover beans can be turned into the filling for Bean Lavash Triangles (page 117).

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Heat the oil in a pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until translucent and starting to brown on the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the beans and 1 tsp of the salt and begin to smash them with a potato masher or a wooden spoon. Once the beans have been broken up into pieces, pour in the water or bean cooking water and bring to a simmer. Cook the beans, stirring constantly, until they thicken up to the consistency of chunky refried beans. Season with the remaining 1 tsp of salt, if desired, and the pepper and mix in the herbs. Serve hot alongside lavash and cheese, if using. Leftover beans keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.