Celery, fennel and egg salad with rye croutons

This crunchy salad is something I turn to when I need a reboot; it’s a crisp, punctuating dish that seems to reset palate and mind, thanks to the texture and temperature of the core ingredients working in tandem with their fresh flavour. Chopped egg and malty rye croutons add balance and ensure that this is perfectly good as a meal on its own, probably serving two people with reasonable appetite. That said, it’s also excellent alongside platters of cured meats, smoked fish, or cooked white fish too (lose the eggs if the latter). For best results ensure the fennel and celery are fridge-cold and use a mandoline to finely shave them (or do what you can with a very sharp knife). Serves 2 as a meal, 4–6 as a side

Good

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/475°F.

Step 2

Put a small saucepan of water on a high heat. When it’s boiling, lower the eggs in and cook at an energetic simmer for 9 minutes. Remove the eggs and immediately plunge into a bowl of iced water or leave to chill under a cold-running tap. Peel and roughly chop.

Step 3

Meanwhile, cut the rye bread into 1–2cm (½–¾in) slices, then tear those into fingernail-size crumbs. Measure two tablespoons of the olive oil into a small baking tray. Roll the rye crumbs in the oil until glossy, then bake at the top of the oven for 7–10 minutes, removing when the edges of the bread are just charred, but the insides are still chewy.

Step 4

Measure the remaining olive oil, all the lemon zest and half the juice, the vinegar, water, tarragon, sugar and mustard, and whisk together to make a vinaigrette. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and taste again (and add more of whichever component you see fit).

Step 5

Combine the fennel and celery in a large bowl with the vinaigrette, mix well then leave for 4–5 minutes to soften a little. Add the parsley, celery leaves and rye croutons, mix again, then tumble the salad onto a platter. Top with the egg and fennel fronds.