Warm Savoy Cabbage, Peas & Bacon

I was having lunch in a café in Sweden and a warm salad similar to this landed in front of me. I really wasn’t expecting it to be anything special. I should have known better: that whole trip to Sweden had been one surprise after another, from racing across ice-covered lakes on snowmobiles, cooking bacon pancakes over an open fire on top of a snowy mountain-peak, and grating dried reindeer over almost any dish in need of something special, in a hut where the snow came up to the eaves. I was being shown around the country by two Swedish powerhouses, Lena and Fia, where even casual lunches were anything but casual. That first forkful sang of the warm, sweet pea purée with the texture of savoy cabbage and a lovely hit of acidity from the shallots. I remember jotting down the combination to use at a later date, and here it is. This is a tribute. I’m not sure that original dish had bacon in it, but I decided a little bacon fat infused into a dressing is no bad thing at all.

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Place a pan of salted water on to boil. Remove the core of the cabbage and cut into random-sized shapes. Place into the boiling water for 2 minutes or until the cabbage is tender. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out and allow to cool slightly.

Step 2

In the same pan of boiling water, place 300g (10½oz) of the peas and boil for 1 minute. Scoop out the peas and place straight into a high-speed blender with a little salt and a splash of the boiling water. Blitz as fine as you wish and keep warm while you prepare the final part. For a silky smooth purée, pass through a fine sieve.

Step 3

In a pan with a tight-fitting lid, add a little splash of olive oil along with the shallots, pancetta and carrots. Cook over a medium heat for 5–10 minutes or until the vegetables have softened, using the lid to create a little steam. Remove the lid and turn the heat up slightly. Add the garlic and thyme and continue to cook for 1–2 minutes. Add the remaining 200g (7oz) peas, cover with the lid and cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with sea salt flakes (kosher salt). Add the parsley and enough olive oil and vinegar to thoroughly dress the peas.

Step 4

To serve, toss together the pea mix with the cabbage and taste to ensure you are happy with the seasoning and dressing. Pile this up over the pea purée.