Hummus

If anything is going to keep you going until lunch, it’s a dish of hummus to start the day. It’s filling and hearty and pairs with all sorts of things. If meatballs seem a bit too epic for breakfast (though they’re no more epic than the bacon or sausage we might not think twice about), try the version with fried eggplant. Cubes of eggplant have a “meaty” quality that makes them a great substitute for meat, if you’re looking for one. We like to double the quantity for the hummus and make both versions at the same time so that there is something for everyone (and both things for some!). Either way, serve the hummus with warm pita (see this page) for scooping, along with a chopped salad (see this page) to lighten things up. And if this still all sounds like a bit too much for breakfast, that’s fine; it works just as well for lunch or supper instead. Getting ahead: Hummus should, ideally, be served freshly made and still warm. For anyone who’s grown up on little tubs of hummus bought from the refrigerated section of a supermarket aisle, eating it while still warm, smooth, creamy, and “loose” will be a revelation. If you do want to make it in advance, though, that’s fine; just store it in an air-tight container and keep it in the fridge for up to four days. If the hummus develops a bit of a “skin” just give it a stir before serving. The most important thing if storing in the fridge, is to bring it back to room temperature before serving, to warm and loosen up. EGGPLANTS: to salt or not to salt Opinion differs on whether or not eggplants should be salted (to release their bitterness) before cooking. For us it’s more about whether we want moisture in the eggplants before cooking (rather than it being about bitterness, which we rarely find to be an issue these days). Our policy is to salt and drain when we are frying eggplant—getting rid of the moisture in the eggplant makes sense before it goes into hot oil—but not when we are roasting cubes or wedges of eggplant. In an oven, the steam generated by a bit of moisture

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

To make the hummus, drain the chickpeas and place them in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the baking soda and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add 6⅓ cups/1.5L of water and bring to a boil. Cook for about 30 minutes—timing can vary from 20 to 40 minutes depending on the freshness of the chickpeas—skimming off any foam that appears. The chickpeas are ready when they collapse easily when pressed between your thumb and finger—almost but not quite mushy.

Step 2

Drain the chickpeas and transfer them to a food processor. Process to form a stiff paste and then, with the machine still running, add the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and salt. Slowly drizzle in the ice water and continue to process for another 5 minutes; this will feel like a long time but it is what is needed to get a very smooth and creamy paste. Transfer to a bowl and set aside at room temperature, until needed. If you are making it in advance, then transfer to an airtight container and keep in the fridge. Remove it half an hour before serving, to bring back to room temperature, and give it a good stir if a “skin” has formed.

Step 3

If making the eggplant version: Line two baking sheets with paper towels.

Step 4

Place the eggplants in a colander placed over a bowl or in the sink and sprinkle with the salt. Use your hands to mix well, then set aside for about 45 minutes; this is so that the bitter juices can be released (see

Step 5

this page for more). Transfer the eggplants to a prepared baking sheet and pat dry as best you can.

Step 6

Put the sunflower oil into a medium frying pan and place over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the eggplants—in two or three batches so as to not crowd the pan—and fry for about 8 minutes, until completely softened and golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggplants to the second prepared baking sheet and set aside, for the

Step 7

excess oil to be absorbed, while you continue with the remaining batches. Transfer the eggplants to a bowl; add the walnuts, parsley, mint, lemon juice, olive oil, and chile flakes; and mix well to combine.

Step 8

Spoon the hummus into individual shallow bowls, creating a slight hollow in the center of each. Spoon in the eggplant and serve at once.