YELLOW BEAN AND SPINACH DOSAS

Priya Ammu has taught me so much about the South Indian staple on which she has built DC Dosa, a little stand inside Washington’s Union Market with a fervent fan base. First, that there are many, many kinds of dosas. Like so many foods, they vary even from family to family, who use different lentils and other legumes, sometimes in combination with rice and with varying spices and fillings. Second, that you don’t even have to fill them, serving them instead with a combination of chutneys and sambar, a legume-based stew. Third, and possibly most important, that I could make them myself. As with crepes, it takes practice to get the spreading technique right, but the worst thing that can happen is you end up with something less-than-perfectly formed. It will still taste as good —trust me.

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

This bright green, fiery sauce is an excellent traditional accompaniment to South Indian dosas, but it’s is also perfectly at home on tacos or over rice.

Step 2

Makes 2 cups

Step 3

Combine the sesame seeds and ½ cup water in a blender and pulse until the mixture is combined but the seeds are mostly still whole.

Step 4

Add an additional ½ cup water plus the cilantro, garlic, onion, lemon juice, chile, and salt and blend briefly, just until combined but not too smooth. (If you overblend, the sesame seeds can turn bitter.) Taste and add more salt if needed.

Step 5

Serve immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Step 6

This vibrant, easy-to-make chutney was designed to accompany Priya’s signature dish, but it is just as good spooned into tacos or over rice—or, depending on how thick you make it, as a fabulous dip.

Step 7

Pour the olive oil into a large skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook, shaking the pan frequently, until they start to pop, 1 to 2 minutes.

Step 8

Stir in the tomatoes, chile, and ginger. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes collapse and exude their juices and the juices thicken, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in ½ cup water and the sugar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are very soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Let the mixture cool slightly.

Step 9

Scrape the tomato mixture into a blender, along with the peanuts and salt. Blend briefly until incorporated but still slightly chunky.

Step 10

Blend in up to ½ cup more water, as needed, to achieve a pourable but thick consistency.

Step 11

Serve immediately, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 3 months

Step 12

Combine the moong dal, ginger, chiles, salt, and 1½ cups water in a blender (preferably a high-powered blender, such as a Vitamix) and puree until very smooth. The mixture should be the consistency of a pancake batter. Add a little more water if it is too thick. (If you use a conventional blender, you may need to add as much as ½ cup additional water.) Stir in the spinach. Taste and add more salt if needed.

Step 13

Heat a large (preferably 11- to 12-inch) crepe pan or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. If the pan is not nonstick, pour in 1 tablespoon of the oil and wipe it out.

Step 14

With a ladle or heatproof measuring cup, scoop ⅓ cup of the batter into the center of the pan and then use the back of the ladle or cup to quickly spread the mixture from the center, working outward in rapid concentric circles. The goal is to get the dosa as thin—and large—as possible, making sure the batter is spread evenly and not too thick, especially at the edges. Use a little more batter if needed to patch small holes but resist the urge to keep smoothing any areas that seem too thick; just try to get it thinner the next time. It’s fine if it’s not perfect!

Step 15

Working quickly, sprinkle about 2 tablespoons each of the onion and cilantro and a little of the chiles on the batter. Lightly sprinkle with some oil and use a spatula to press the toppings down into the batter.

Step 16

Cook the dosa until the edges are golden brown, about 1 to 2 minutes. Use a spatula to loosen it if necessary, then flip the dosa over—using your fingers to pick it up on one side and flipping it with confidence. Use the spatula to help even it out if needed, then press with the spatula to sear the onions underneath the dosa and cook for another minute, then flip it again, transfer it to a plate, and fold it in half or in thirds like a business letter.

Step 17

Serve the dosas immediately while hot (they lose some of their requisite crispy-edge-ness if they sit for long, especially if you stack them). Serve with the recipes that follow: Cilantro-Sesame Chutney, Tomato-Peanut Chutney, and Chickpea Sambar (this page). Repeat with the remaining batter.