steamed egg custArd with crispy chilli oil

Zheng shui dan China Serves 2 as a snack Crispy chilli oil is a festival of heat, crunch and umami, and a condiment I implore you discover immediately if it isn’t already in your arsenal. Lao Gan Ma is the most popular brand in China (literally ‘old godmother’ and you’ll spot the jar by her face) and has dried chilli mixed with fermented soya beans and crisp fried onion. Alternatively, there is Chiu Chow chilli oil, which has a soft-textured, salty mix of preserved chillies and huge quantities of fried garlic. The eggs here are really just a vehicle for the chilli oil, but it is a great Chinese home cooking technique to have up your sleeve as they are quick to make and have the satisfying smooth, creamy wobble of panna cotta

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% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Break the eggs into a measuring jug and beat well without frothing. Note the volume and add one-and-a-half times as much warm water (probably around 150ml/generous ½ cup). Whisk in the soy sauce.

Step 2

Pour the egg mixture through a fine sieve into two small rice bowls or ramekins. Cover with foil or saucers and put into a steamer set over already-boiling water. Cover and steam for 10–14 minutes, until the eggs have just set to a delicate custard.

Step 3

Serve warm, topped with a scattering of chives and anointed with crispy chilli oil.

Step 4

Makes 200ml (generous ¾ cup)

Step 5

If you’d prefer to make your own oil, here is a great one where Sichuan peppercorns lend a pricking, tingling heat and the black cardamom brings a resinous depth.

Step 6

Note, without the garlic, the oil will keep for months. With the garlic, you should store in the fridge and use within a few days.

Step 7

Grind the husks of the Sichuan peppercorns to a rough powder using a pestle and mortar (discard any of the shiny black seeds).

Step 8

Put all the ingredients in a small saucepan and set over a very low heat. Cook gently for around 10 minutes. Towards the end it should be quietly sizzling and everything lightly toasted and a pale golden.

Step 9

Leave to cool, then transfer the oil along with the sediment to a glass jar and seal.