Hummus

Britain (and elsewhere?) got hummus completely wrong for decades, relegating it to house-party dip territory, rather than the wholesome, gentle meal that it is in places like Tel Aviv, Bethlehem, Beirut and beyond. Good hummus is creamy, soothing, savoury. It serves as a base for things like hard-boiled eggs, piles of spices, puddles of tahini, raw onions, fava beans, more chickpeas rolled in more tahini, chicken livers and fried onions. It is a moment as much as a meal. Once you get that, you return to it often. It’s good to soak and simmer chickpeas yourself, but cooked chickpeas from a can are fine too, and suggested here to make this a quick cook. Some insist the chickpeas should be skinned by rubbing them between dish towels once cooked; with a half-decent blender, I’m not sure it’s an essential step. But you do need warm cooking water to ensure an aerated, silky texture.

Great

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

Empty the cans of chickpeas, including the liquid, into a saucepan. Fill one of the cans with water and add that in, plus the garlic. Place over a medium heat, bring to a steady simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Strain the contents through a sieve (strainer), reserving the cooking liquid. Measure 100g (scant ½ cup) of that liquid and set to one side.

Step 2

While still warm, transfer the chickpeas, garlic and cooking liquid to a blender. Add the tahini, two tablespoons of lemon juice and two teaspoons of salt. Pulse, then blend for at least a minute until completely silky smooth. Add a tablespoon or three more of warm water if you think it needs it. Taste and add additional lemon and/or salt too, if needed.

Step 3

If not using immediately, decant into Tupperware and cover to prevent a skin forming. It refrigerates well for up to 3 days.

Step 4

To serve, drop 1–2 heavy dollops of warm hummus in a bowl and use the back of a spoon to create a well in the middle. Fill it with tahini, crisp chickpeas, softhardie boiled eggs, some olive oil, salt and a pile of parsley. You can embellish further, whether with relatively traditional additions like chicken livers and onions, or less traditional roast cauliflower with seeds and paprika butter (opposite). Regardless, scoop everything up with warm pita or other flatbread.

Step 5

Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/425°F

Step 6

Spread the drained chickpeas over a small baking tray. Add the oil, roll the chickpeas in that until glossy and cook at the top of the oven for 30 minutes until golden (they become crunchier as they cool). Season immediately with lots of flaky salt then set to one side.

Step 7

Bring a small–medium saucepan of water to a rolling boil. Lower the eggs in with a spoon and cook at an energetic simmer for 7 minutes. Immediately transfer to iced water or leave under a cold-running tap until cool enough to peel. Cut in half at the last minute.

Step 8

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F.

Step 9

Cut the greens from the cauliflower and set to one side. Break the cauliflower apart and cut the biggest florets in half. Use the core and stalk too, cutting them into 2cm (1in) chunks. Measure four tablespoons of oil into a large bowl, add the cauliflower, mix well then tip onto a baking sheet (or two, if necessary) and slide into the hot oven.

Step 10

Meanwhile, toast the cumin seeds in a dry frying pan for 2–3 minutes until aromatic. Use a pestle and mortar to bash the seeds open, but not quite to a fine powder. Set aside. Cut the really chunky cauliflower greens in half so no stem is longer than about 6cm (2½in). Put these in a mixing bowl (you can use the one the cauliflower was in), add the remaining tablespoon of oil and toss so the greens are glossy.

Step 11

After 25 minutes, give the cauliflower a shuffle and sprinkle the cumin over the top. Return to the oven for 10 minutes, after which the cauliflower should be golden but still quite soggy. Turn the florets so that different parts face up/down and then intersperse with the greens. Roast for 10–15 minutes more, until both cauliflower and greens are charred yet succulent. Season with a lot of salt and add to the hummus bowls.

Step 12

To finish, place a frying pan over a high heat and add the butter. As it melts and begins to froth, add the mixed seeds to the pan and swirl around. When the butter is golden and smells nutty, add the paprika, stir and immediately spoon over the cauliflower.