Aash-e Nazri Wish Soup

To make a nazr means to make a pledge or a wish. If a person or a family is going through a hardship, like an illness, or awaiting news of some kind, they make a wish and prepare this aash. Extended family, friends, and neighbors contribute to the aash, donating a portion of the ingredients, in hopes of the wish coming true. The aash is then shared with the community. If the wish comes true a pledge is made to prepare the aash annually and share it with those in need. Aash-e Nazri, also known as aash-e sholeh ghalamkar, captures not only the true essence of aash but also speaks directly to the heart and spirit of the Persian kitchen, in both use of ingredients and the dish’s symbolism. The sentiment behind this aash speaks to the generosity of the human spirit, coming together in times of strife and in times of celebration. With that generosity of the heart and the pantry in mind, pretty much any combination of beans, grains, and greens can work here. Swap out the mung beans for lentils, the farro (not typically an Iranian ingredient but one of my favorite wheat grains) for bulgur or more rice, leek greens for the green onion. Try black-eyed peas, fancy heirloom beans (I wouldn’t use black beans, though, as their flavor and color would overwhelm this aash). Call up your friends, have them show up early to help you sort through the herbs. Make a big batch of this aash together. Set the pot in the middle of the table. Set some aside to share with your neighbors, and dig in. And if you have a wish, make sure to stir that in as well.

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Step 1

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 8 minutes. Sprinkle with a little salt. Reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic, beet stems, and a good pinch of salt, and cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes.

Step 2

Add the turmeric, rice, and farro, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the chickpeas, cannellini beans, red kidney beans, and 12 cups water. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover with the lid slightly ajar, and simmer for 35 to 40 minutes.

Step 3

Meanwhile, you can prepare the Piaz Daagh–Seer Daagh–Na’na Daagh, if you don’t have some stashed in the fridge or freezer.

Step 4

Add the mung beans. Bring back up to a gentle boil and reduce the heat to medium, cover with the lid slightly ajar, and simmer until the beans have slightly softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Add all the herbs, chopped green onions, beet greens, 2 tablespoons of Piaz Daagh–Seer Daagh–Na’na Daagh, 1 tablespoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cover with the lid slightly ajar and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, until all the flavors and fragrances fall into place and blossom. Stir occasionally, making sure nothing sticks to the bottom of the pot. Add more water if the aash gets too thick. Taste as you go, and add more salt and pepper as you like. Keep in mind that the kashk is salty.

Step 5

Turn off the heat and stir in the kashk or yogurt. Taste and add more to your liking. Garnish with extra kashk or yogurt and Piaz Daagh–Seer Daagh–Na’na Daagh, serve, and tuck in.

Step 6

MAKE AHEAD: Prepare up to 3 days in advance. Aash-e Nazri simply gets better prepared ahead of time, as the flavors come together, intensify, and really fall into place. Gently reheat on the stovetop, and add water to thin out and adjust the seasoning as needed.

Step 7

PREP AHEAD: The fresh herbs can be prepped (here) 1 day ahead and stored in airtight containers in the fridge. Make a batch of Piaz Daagh– Seer Daagh–Na’na Daagh and always have some on hand in the freezer or fridge.

Step 8

PLAN AHEAD: Store up to 3 months in the freezer. Portion off and grab on a harried weeknight. Reheat, soothe, and make a wish.

Step 9

This makes about ½ cup of topping. You won’t be using it all in this recipe. Use as much as needed. Store the rest in the fridge or in the freezer and use to top any dips, soups, aash, or even burgers.

Step 10

In a medium pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Make sure the oil is nice and hot, but not smoking. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the garlic and salt, and keep cooking, stirring as you go, for about 5 minutes. If the pan gets too dry, drizzle in more oil as needed. Stir in the turmeric and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the dried mint, quickly mixing it in. Set aside and use as needed. MAKE AHEAD: The fried onion-garlic-mint can be made ahead of time and stored in the fridge for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 3 months.