Eggs Fried in Parmesan Breadcrumbs with Wilted Spinach

Eggs fried in breadcrumbs were the creation of the late Judy Rodgers, the longtime chef of Zuni Cafe, San Francisco’s landmark restaurant. The iconic dish consists of crisp, toasted breadcrumbs as a textural underlay for eggs that are cooked on top, the whites seeping slightly into the crumbs before they set and the yolks on the surface remaining sunny and runny. For our version, we use panko instead of stale bread torn into pieces, as Rodgers did, and before toasting, we mix in a little Parmesan (or manchego) cheese to add umami, plus a touch of vinegar to sharpen the flavors. Baby spinach scattered over the eggs as they fry in the covered pan offers insulation so they cook gently. If you prefer your yolks medium- or hard-set, add 1 to 3 minutes to the cooking time. Only four eggs fit comfortably in a 12-inch skillet; if you need more for serving, it’s best to make another batch or use a second 12-inch nonstick skillet. Don’t overtoast the panko mixture.It should be only lightly browned before the additional oil and eggs are added. If the mixture is already moderately toasted when the eggs are added, the breadcrumbs may wind up overdone in the finished dish.

Unbalanced

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, combine the panko, Parmesan, thyme, paprika, vinegar, ½ teaspoon pepper and 3 tablespoons oil. Stir until well combined.

Step 2

Set the skillet over medium-high and toast the mixture, stirring often, until light golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Working quickly, use the back of a spoon to create 4 evenly spaced clearings in the mixture. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons oil into the clearings, dividing it evenly, then crack an egg into each; it should sizzle on contact.

Step 3

Sprinkle the eggs with salt, then cover them with the spinach. Reduce to medium-low, cover the skillet and cook, occasionally rotating the pan to help ensure even browning, until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Using a thin, wide spatula, transfer the eggs to individual plates. Drizzle with additional oil and sprinkle with additional cheese.